Friday, 26 August 2016

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Tuesday, 23 August 2016

Topkapi, Jules Dassin, 1964
The daddy of all heist films, in which "Swiss master criminal" Maximilian Schell, Peter Ustinov, Robert Morley and Melina Mercouri – who was the muse for Dassin's Oscar-winning Never On Sunday, and later his wife – have terrific fun trying to steal the emerald-encrusted dagger of the hunchback Sultan Mahmud I from the Topkapi palace museum. Mission: Impossible, the Pink Panther, and Ocean's Eleven, Twelve and Thirteen all owe their jokey breeziness to Dassin and his merry band, although few have bettered them. Great score, too, from Manos Hatzidakis.
• Topkapi palace

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k8thNodJpLc

Friday, 19 August 2016

Place to fall in love
For millennia, Istanbul represented the gateway to the East, a land coveted by would-be conquerors and kings. In the 21st century, the city’s charisma endures, sustained by the remnants of Greek and Roman palaces, opulent Byzantine cathedrals and undulating Ottoman domes, by the spectacularly scenic Bosphorus Straits and by world-class shopping and dining.


If there are two icons that symbolize the city, they are the Blue Mosque, named for its 20,000 richly hued Iznik tiles hand crafted by the empire’s best artisans, and the awe-inspiring Hagia Sophia, Justinian’s palatial ode to the Almighty. The juxtaposition of these two monuments at the epicenter of the Historic Peninsulais a living hallmark to the city’s collective inheritance, that introduces visitors to a city steeped in monumental Byzantine history and enduring Ottoman lore.

Vestiges of an empire lasting nearly 1,500 years form the foundations of the city. Grand churches like the Hagia Sophia and St. Savior in Chora safeguard remarkable gold-tiled mosaics depicting stories of saints and saviors and of Emperors and Empresses. Ancient ruins such as the Hippodrome, built by Septimus Severus and later enlarged by Constantine, stand proudly in public spaces around the city. Remnants can even be found beneath the city’s streets, with the Yerebatan Cistern, the largest of several hundred ancient cisterns underground, built in the 6th century during the reign of Byzantine Emperor Justinian. Indeed, at nearly every stride, one can stumble upon ancient fortress walls, Byzantine basilicas, celebrated shrines, Christian relics and peristyle courtyards.

The unparalleled might of the Ottoman Sultans rises in silhouette along the Tarihi Yarimada (Historic Peninsula), revealing a legacy of masterpieces fit for the capital of their sultandom. The iconic Topkapi Palace offers a window into the mystique of the Sultans and their harems in a vast complex of pavilions, gardens, towers, monumental gates and spectacular vistas, harboring treasures of gold and silver, of precious porcelain and gems including the notorious 85-karat Spoonmaker’s Diamond. The lavish, European-inspired palaces built in the latter centuries of the empire along the shores of the Bosphorus include the opulent DolmabahçePalace.

The empire’s fidelity to faith was honored through the construction of dozens of charitable works, from monumental mosques to hospitals, schools and soup kitchens. The richly adorned hamams of Çemberlitas, Süleymaniye and Haseki Hürrem Sultan stand as marble temples to personal hygiene, surpassed today solely by their quintessentially modern approach to self-indulgent spa treatments.

Ottoman commerce focused around a warren of 80 streets and craftsmen’s hans in the sprawling and spectacular Kapali Çarsi (Grand Bazaar), which today houses 4,000 merchants selling silken carpets, dazzling gemstones, lush fabrics and glittering treasures and trinkets to appeal to every desire. This rich past is preserved not only in the city’s buildings and cultural traditions, but also in the Istanbul Archaeology Museum, The Museum of the Ancient Orient, and Museum of Islamic Art, which together house over one million pieces representing almost all the eras and civilizations in world history.

But while Istanbul’s heart lies in its past, the soul of Istanbul is aimed squarely in the future, propelling a renaissance that pervades nearly every corner of city life. Formerly derelict neighborhoods are now delightful and atmospheric places to visit. The cobbled Sogukçesme Street is lined with 19th century Ottoman row houses and sandwiched between the Hagia Sophia and the exterior courtyard walls of Topkapi Palace. Balat, formerly the home of Jewish, Greek and Armenian immigrants, is now a chic residential neighborhood with art galleries, churches and synagogues. And there’s Galata, a fashionably bohemian zone where the Medieval Galata Tower mingles with trendy boutiques. In preserved Roman cisterns, converted hamams and in renovated palaces, Istanbul has seized upon the trend of featuring its grand historic spaces as dramatic settings for performances of all kinds.

Istanbul is the only city in the world that spans two continents, and this meeting point between Asia and Europe is joined by the city’s iconic Bosphorus Bridge. While the physical bridge was completed in 1973, Istanbul itself has been bridging the cultures of East and West for centuries. On both sides of the Bosphorus Strait are a growing number of cutting edge art galleries and cultural centers that look to the future through Turkish artists’ unique lens on the past. View establish artists at the Istanbul Modern, absorb the artistry of 18th and 19th century Ottoman portraiture, screen an independent film at the Pera Museum or be inspired by Istanbul’s world-class exhibition spaces doubling as incubators of contemporary art.

Yet it’s not only the art scene that is undergoing a revival of sorts. The lilting sound of the Turkish heartland can be heard in the back streets of Taksim, while the spiritual dance of the Whirling Dervishes or the fearsome percussion of the Ottoman Mehter Band seduce the general public in venues all over town. Arched cells of cloistered medreses now echo with the sound of artisans reviving the Islamic arts of calligraphy, ebru and painting in miniature. And in the past few years, celebrity chefs have descended upon Istanbul to lead the way in establishing the city as a uniquely Turkish culinary capital featuring traditional and creative delicacies rivaling those found in other culinary capitals. With dining rooms fronting the twinkling lights of the Bosphorus, a holiday meal couldn’t get any more romantic.

If shopping is the main event, you need look no further than the posh thoroughfares of Nisantasi, and Bagdat Avenue, the exclusive boutiques of Kanyon, Istinye Park, and Trump Tower, the purveyors of Turkish delicacies at the Misir Çarsisi (Egyptian Spice Bazaar) and the trinkets, baubles and souvenirs found all over the city.

If you’re looking for something completely different yet utterly familiar, a placed that is exotic yet inviting, Istanbul both maintains a veil of mystery and projects a life force that together, comprises a unique, 21st century cornucopia of ancient, modern, vibrant, serene, intimate, cosmopolitan and delicious treasures.

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Monday, 8 August 2016

Let the stunning turquoise coasts sweep you off your feet and cast into the air by a journey through the exact meaning of “Turquoise.” To witness how endless it is in this magical country check it out in this video produced in collaboration with Turkish Airlines.

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Thursday, 28 July 2016

ISTANBUL’s street food and drinks;
AYRAN: Cold yogurt and water mixed with salt is definitely an acquired taste for most westerners, but Turks love it. McDonalds even sells their own version in Turkey. Where can I find it? Ayran is best paired with meat dishes. Choose any small kebab seller on the street, wash your meal down with this drink, and feel like a real Turk.
SALEP: This drink is exclusive; it’s only sold in the winter months! If you’re in Istanbul when the temperature drops, don’t miss out on this sweet milky drink sprinkled with cinnamon. Orchid roots were the original thickeners, but you’re more likely to encounter corn starch these days. Don’t worry- it tastes exactly the same! Where can I find it? Cozy up in any Kahve Dunyasi and if the salep’s not enough, grab one of the other hundred treats they offer to satisfy your sweet tooth.
RAKI: This is a strong, clear, anise-flavored spirit, similar to Greek ouzo and French pastis. Most people drink it by adding cold water and ice cubes (in that order), which gives rakı its chalky white look. Hence why people also call it lion’s milk. The most popular brands are Yeni, Efe and Tekirdağ. Locals usually consume rakı while enjoying mezes and fish.
BOZA: This seasonal fermented drink appears in various incarnations from the Balkans to Central Asia. In Istanbul, boza is made from millet that has been boiled, crushed, and strained. The result is a thick liquid, which is fermented and ultimately garnished with cinnamon and roasted chickpeas. Popularized during the Ottoman period, boza is made mainly during the winter and sold by mobile vendors and from small shops or cafes.
SERBET: Şerbet is a beverage of ancient origins, which is made by infusing liquid with herbs, fruits, flowers, resins, or honey. Istanbul’s old-school şerbet vendors serve it from flasks on the street, though the custom is disappearing. Thankfully, the drink has been somewhat revived by a handful of new cafes and simple eateries that embrace Ottoman and Anatolian traditions.
BALIK-EKMEK: Balık-ekmek, literally fish-bread, is a cheap sandwich composed of grilled fish (usually mackerel or a similarly oily catch), onions, tomato, and lettuce. They are typically served from venues ranging from portable grills beside the Sea of Marmara to rocking boats on the Golden Horn, and to slightly more formal (but still completely casual) venues along the Bosphorus. The most famous vendors serve balık-ekmek from boats in Eminönü beside Galata Bridge. There, the sandwiches are undeniably cheap, but the quality of the fish is abysmal. For a slight improvement in quality, head up the Bosphorus for sandwiches sold near ferry landings and at cafes at the edge of the water. Regardless of where you find balık-ekmek, wash the sandwich down with şalgam, a salty and tangy drink made from fermented carrots and turnips.
GOZLEME: Like many of Istanbul's fast foods, these savory hand-rolled crepes have their origins in Anatolia. They are best when filled and grilled to order. The thinly rolled dough is folded around the fillings of your choice (chard, white cheese, potatoes, onions, or even meat), then seasoned with butter as it cooks. Live gözleme production — featuring women in archaic dress rolling dough in storefront windows — is a ploy used to entice visitors into tourist traps in Istanbul's historic districts, but there are plenty of markets that sell better quality crepes.
TURSU: Pickles are a beloved feature of the city's cuisine, and pickling offers the possibility of preserving fruits and vegetables year-round, a necessity due to Turkey's natural abundance. The city's historic shops peddle all sorts of pickled produce, from plums and tomatoes to garlic and whole ears of corn. Depending on the shop or the item, the pickling liquid may be vinegar or salt brine. Every shop sells pickles to take away or to consume on the spot, ideally plunged into a glass of brine and seasoned with pickled peppers for an extra kick.
ISLAK BURGER: Mystery meat patties are served on spongy buns, which have been doused in a sweet tomato and onion sauce, then left to steam in glass cases. These so-called "wet burgers" cost the equivalent of about a buck and are sold 24 hours a day from the shops in the southwest corner of Taksim Square. Though they are available around the clock, there's an unsurprising surge on wet burgers right around the time the bars close.
DİLLİ KASARLI TOST: Essentially a grilled cheese sandwich enriched with slivers of beef tongue, dilli kaşarlı tost falls into Istanbul's much-beloved category of "drunk food," ideally consumed standing around Taksim Square in a rakı-induced haze. The sandwich is by no means strictly for the intoxicated, and plenty of cafes serve it all day long, but consumption spikes when the bars in Beyoğlu shut down and the masses converge on Taksim's southwest edge for alcohol-absorbing snacks.
KOKOREC: This grilled offal delicacy, which is popular throughout Turkey, Greece, and the Balkans, consists of lamb's intestines wrapped around innards such as sweetbreads. The resulting loaf-like product is roasted, then sliced, chopped, and cooked on a grill with diced tomato, spices, and dried herbs. Kokoreçis best when made from young lambs, but the demand by large chains often leads to older animals being used instead, leading to a gamier quality than the milder, younger offal. Kokoreç stalls are particularly present near the city's bazaars, offering a cheap and quick lunch for shoppers and vendors to enjoy on the fly.

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Tuesday, 26 July 2016

Istanbul is a large city spread across two continents - Europe and Asia and has been attracting visitors for hundreds of years. Most first time visitors arrive in Istanbul thinking they can easily see everything in a few days only to discover their guide books barely scratched the surface when it came to what one can see and do in Istanbul. Not only are there historically significant places to see there is also delicious Turkish food to eat, spectacular scenery to view and unique shopping experiences to be had. The best way to get the most out of your time in Istanbul and experience the real Istanbul is to use the services of a local guide. Local guides know the city like the back of their hands and can show you hidden restaurants that the guide books don't know about, maneuver you around the crowds to minimize waiting times at attractions, explain the countries history from their perspective and experienced and teach you how to drink tea like a local.

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Friday, 22 July 2016

The Grand Bazaar
The Grand Bazaar (Kapalıçarşı) in Istanbul is one of the largest covered markets in the world with 60 streets and 5,000 shops, and attracts between 250,000 and 400,000 visitors daily. It is well known for its jewellery, hand-painted ceramics, carpets, embroideries, spices and antique shops. Many of the stalls in the bazaar are grouped by type of goods, with special areas for leather, gold jewellery and the like. The bazaar has been an important trading centre since 1461 and its labyrinthine vaults feature two bedestens (domed buildings), the first of which was constructed between 1455 and 1461 by the order of Sultan Mehmed the Conqueror. The bazaar was vastly enlarged in the 16th century, during the reign of Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent, and in 1894 underwent a major restoration following an earthquake.
The complex houses two mosques, four fountains, two hamams, and several cafés and restaurants. In the centre is the high domed hall of the Cevahir Bedesten, where the most valuable items and antiques were to be found in the past, and still are today, including furniture, copperware, amber prayer beads, inlaid weapons, icons, mother-of-pearl mirrors, water pipes, watches and clocks, candlesticks, old coins, and silver and gold jewellery set with coral and turquoise. A leisurely afternoon spent exploring the bazaar, sitting in one of the cafés and watching the crowds pass by, and bargaining for purchases is one of the best ways to recapture the romantic atmosphere of old Istanbul.
Gates:
The Grand Bazaar has four main gates situated at the ends of its two major streets which intersect near the southwestern corner of the bazaar.
Opening Times:
Monday to Saturday 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sundays and bank holidays.
Getting there:
Take a tram to Beyazit, Üniversite or Sirkeci.
The Grand Bazaar is around 15 minutes walk from the Aya Sofya/Blue Mosque area.
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