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Everything you need to know about meze:

By now, you know a meyhane is a crucial part of Turkish nightlife and you want to try one out. But what to do about that glass display counter filled with a kaleidoscope of dishes that the waiters keep pointing you towards? They’re sure to be packed with meze – small dishes of all assortments and ingredients, meant to be eaten alongside copious amounts of raki.

Ordering at meyhane works slightly differently than other restaurants. Waiters come to your table with a tray packed with meze, or they invite you to pick from a glass display counter. The variety may overwhelm, but don’t be shy - choose with abandon. They may be small, but a night at a meyhane often ends without the table ever ordering a main course.

But which ones to go for? Eggplant? Fish? What about all of the yogurt and seasonal vegetables? Here’s an illustrated guide to ordering at a meyhane, to help you better understand the rich selection of meze.

Many meze include garlicky yogurt in some capacity. Haydari is one staple found in almost every meyhane; garlicky strained yogurt seasoned with spices that resembles cacik, but is thicker and without cucumber. There are also deep fried veggies served with yogurt, Russian-style Olivier salad or just plain yogurt - the possibilities are endless. On a date? Make sure you ask for the non-garlicky options.

In addition to vegetables and herbs, seafood makes its way onto the meyhane tables. If you order ciroz, you’ll be served mackerels sun-dried then fried, served with vinegar, olive oil, and lemon juice. The fish might look small, but they pack a flavour wallop.

In its raw state, it may look like an inedible wild weed. But when cleaned and boiled deniz borulcesi - sea beans, salicornia, or glasswort - turns into a delicious side dish. On a meyhane table, deniz borulcesi is usually served with garlicky yogurt - again - or with olive oil.

A dish that has been around since the Ottoman times, lakerda pops up on the tables of seafood lovers. It is essentially Atlantic bonito fish brined for weeks and served sliced with olive oil and seasoned with black pepper.

As the name implies, the Aegean dish fava is made with fava (broad) beans mashed with onion, dill and olive oil. As it’s left in the fridge overnight, fava takes a firm texture and is served as diamond slices with olive oil.

Essentially cured fish roe whipped up with olive oil and lemon, creamy and sumptuous tarama might become your favourite dip. Spread it on bread, or just dive in with a spoon.

Grilled, peeled, and mashed eggplants, served with or without yogurt sounds delicious, does it not? Meet patlican ezme (mashed eggplants), another popular meze you’ll never tire of.

Fried, diced eggplant with garlicky tomato sauce. This may sound like a main course, but it is the recipe of popular meze şakşuka (shashuka). Generally served cold, some varieties may also include fried potatoes.

Babunya pilaki is one of the many types of zeytinyagli (vegetables cooked in olive oil). In this dish Borlotti beans are cooked with onions, garlic, tomatoes, and carrots, lending itself to a sweet and tart finish. Garnished with herbs and served with wedges of lemon.

Chances are, you have tried the midye dolma (stuffed mussels) sold on the streets around Istanbul. Spicy rice redolent of cinnamon is a great combination with the shellfish meat. Although it may be a late-night food after night of drinking, pair it with your drink on the table as well. Don’t forget that essential squeeze of lemon!

Whether you ask for it or not, a piece of feta cheese usually ends up on your plate. This is an essential part of the Turkish meyhane, pairing the cheese and melon alongside raki.

You may book one of our Private Istanbul Tours to explore one of the true meyhane’s of Istanbul. For more information regarding to private tours in Istanbul please contact us:
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